December 3, 2003

• 6 MONTHS IN SOUTH AFRICA

  
  

  BY: DANIEL LILIENTHAL

  
  

  THE FOLLOWING IS AN UNEDITED AND CONTINUALLY UPDATED JOURNAL OF A 22-YEAR OLD AMERICAN TRAVELING ABROAD.

  
  

   

  
  

  Topic: Traveling to Madrid

  
  

  The ticket lady asks me, “So, you’re a wandering spirit too?”  I look at her confused, then she explains, “My son has the same birthday as you, July 18, and he can’t sit still.  He’s always traveling.  He took forever to finish college because he was always transfergging from Cali, to Florida, to NY.”  Her so nwas 26, and after she helped get my bags checked, she said to me, “Thank you for helping me understand my son better.”  I sort of laughed at the thought of my birthday being the cause or reason for my travels.

  
  

  The airline I’m flying, Iberia, is partnered with American Airlines.  A few weeks ago I received a coupon for a free visit to their Admirals Club, or VIP lounge.  Unfortunately, I left the coupon at home.  I tried to get in anyways, taking the elivator up to the marble hotel-like lobby of the Admirals Club.  My name wasn’t in the system though, and despite my curiousity about what lay around the corner, which included free internet, luxurious couches, free snacks and drinks, showers, and the elite feeling of being part of this expensive club, the desk lady denied me entrance, and then threw salt in my wounds. “You can get in as a visitor for $50,” she told me.  I politely told her I’m on a budged, not telling her I would be drinking a lot of water the next 6 months because I feel $1 for a beverage (except beer) is an unecessary luxury.

  
  

  At the terminal, I found a few 100 people who, like me, were not fit for the Admirals Club.  HE3HAHCKNN (the last 2 n’s being backwards) was the title of a book the man next to me was reading.  He also had a hands free phone in his hear, that shouted, “Russian spy, Russian spy!” 

  
  

  I decided to take it easy early in my trip.  I put on my earphones, making other’s conversations unavailable to me, and demonstrating to others that I would be keeping to myself, as is the norm in airline terminals.  The book in front of me had no numbers in its title, and was a sure giveaway that I was not a Russian-spy.  But, it had the key element of being a good book.  On the second page, the narrator says, “Plans are deliberately indefinate, more to travel than to arrive anywhere.”  The book is Zen and the Arto of Motorcycle Maintanance, and the author must have had me in mind when he wrote that line.

  
  

  11/2/03 9:40PM The pre-travel travel

  
  

  The first time I flew alone, my mom wanted to track me like a UPS package.  The point was, I was supposed to get from here to there, with no interferance.  I was a lot shyer back then, and probably nervous myself about missing my flight, losing my ticket, or getting shipped off to some far away place.  College required me to fly several times a year from New York to St. Louis, sometimes direct, sometimes via Baltimore or Chicago.  The commute, from leaving the house, to arriving back at school, soon became routine.  I even began to open up some to the person sitting next to me. 

  
  

  There was the nun who wanted to talk sports the whole time, the Irishman who had just seen his first ice hockey match, and was fortunate enough to see a decent fight without the refs interrupting, the girl from my school was was hoping to get back in time to see her boyfriend play in a second round division 3 men’s basketball game (we both went, we lost), and theIsraeli who was interested in the play I was reading for my modern Jewish writers class.  He later commented he hated plays.

  
  

  I arrived in Madrid at 8am this morning.  My flight to Johannesburg isn’t for another two hours and change.  That’s a whole 16 hours of story to write about, so, what would I do with my day?

  
  

  For 2 euros, 40 cents, I took a bus to the city center.  This allowed me some time to see the city without worrying about navigation.  I visited the Prado, which, although it left me mostly unimpressed, still gets points for being famous.  What put the day into the memorable category was a visit to Bernbeau stadium, where Real Madrid, home of the winningest club team in soccer history.  The main reason I went is because I knew my old college roommate, Aaron, would be upset if I didn’t.  Two years ago, he visited me while I was studying abroad in London.  The first thing he wasted to do when I met him at my tube stop, was to visit Wimbledon.  The rest of the week, he went around visiting every famous sporting place he could find.  Today, I carried on his spirit, and was rewarded for it.  The panaramic view from the top of the stadium left me frozen in my tracks.  The field and seats were completely empty, and the imagination began to conjure up the amazing atmosphere that this stadium must possess druing every game.  The tour then proceded down thto the owner’s seats, where a taste of the most comfortable and best located seats was had.  That was, until the actual players’ seats were made availabe.  After passing through the visitng lockerroom and wlaking through the same adrenaline raising tunnel the players face every game, I found myself wandering the Real Madrid sideline.  My camera began snapping away, as I had a few taken of me loungin gin the players’ seats, that were built for a luxury vehicle, plush leather cushioning and of course, seat warmers.  I made friends with the Cuban woman whose job it was to patrol the sideline.  She filmed me sitting and rotating through all the seats, then performing stretches and jogging along the sideline.  My broken Spanish and her broken English made for a broken conversation, but she seemed happy to try, and it allowed me more time to sit and rest my feet while on the field of the best soccer team of the 20th century.

  
  

  Interestingly enough, that was an acutal award voted on by FIFA, the internation soccer organization.  Inside the trophy room, the wall writings explained exactly why Real Madrid is the best team ever.  “We have the most trophies,” it read.  “What else matters?  Other teams try to say they are the best, but do they have as many tropies.  No.  That’s why we are the best, and everyone else with less trophies has no idea what it takes to be the best.”  In the background, Queen’s “We are the champions,” was blasting.  Clearly, the importance of soccer and the level of pride people take in their teams is at a level this American can only describe as, “comedic.”  I love it though.  American sports is all about stats, and what you did last.  Teams define success by what is within their ability.  If a young or rebuilding team has a good season, all are happy.  If an individual on a team reaches a milestone, their success may overshadow a teams failure to win.  For Real Madrid, you just need to ask yourself one question, “Do you have as much hardware as me?  I didn’t think so.  Don’t talk to me.” 

  
  

  By the time I left the stadium, I was tired and freezing.  I caught the metro back to the airport, and there were still 6 hours till my flight.  Following the lead of others travelers, I stretched out on 3 chairs, using my backpack as a pillow, and dozed on and off.  When I realized the consequences this was having on my body, I decided to walk aimlessly around the terminal.  That’s when I found Andrew.  Andrew was also wandering around the terminal, and when we recognized we were the only 2 people wandering around the terminal, we decided to introduce ourselves.

  
  

  Andrew is 23, originally from Cape Town, South Africa, but has spent the last 4 years on the norther of New Zealand’s two islands.  After finishing his undergraduate studies in computer science, he began to work on a masters, but soon had the urge to escape that life.  So, he flew to Ecuador and spent a month volunteering as a school teacher there.  With only a little working Spanish to go on, he taught 6 classes of English in a school where students alternated weeks of going to school because there is simply to many of them to all go at one time.  And so began my pre-traveling experience.  The opportunity to make friends from other walks of life began the moment my dad dropped me off at the airport.  For several hours the conversation continued and suddently the idealism I had been dreaming of and spending time talking to others about, was shared just as intensely by Andrew.  It does seem a bit odd, making this discovery before even reaching my travel destination.  But when you reconsdier what traveling is about, it makes sense.  “It’s not about the countries you visit, it’s about hte people you meet,” Andrew said, “There just seems to be so few of them in New Zealand.”  I agreed with that last comment with respect to Americans.  And I’m sure people all over the world with the exception of travel happy Australians would share the same sentiment about their own homelands.

  
  

  So, why has it been so difficult for people like Andrew and me to find like-minded travelers?  Well, for one reason, today is the beginning of a period of solo traveling for both of us.  Consider this quote from Andrew, “It’s hard to find people who think like you if you don’t do what you think.”  What this means, I think, is if you desire to travel in order to meet different people and see different lands, you’re more likely to meet your objective by traveling, rather than not.

  
  

  Andrew gave me his list of info about South African geography, people, and culture.  I’ve already received insites into visiting places that I’d never find in a guidebook.  Plus, he taught me an important piece of slang.  “If I said to you, ‘want to get some chocolate just now?’ What would that mean to you?”  “Well,” I said, “Either you just got chocolate, or you want to get some chocolate right now, or you need to work on your English.”  Turns out, “just now” means pretty soon, so if a friend said ”I’m leaving just now for the bar,” I’d still have a few minutes to get ready.

  
  

  Along with these and other small pointers such as, “cars don’t believe in pedestrians,” that will surely accelerate my learning curve and keep me from physical harm, what I appreciated most about meeting Andrew was the pasion he and I shared for living life by our own rules.  “When I get home, I’m gonna save up, not buy a new computer, I just want to travel travel travel travel,” he said.  He then read me a quote he saved in his own journal. “Follow your bliss.”  He said that meant moving chairs if that’s what would give you bliss at that moment.  Together we concluded that travelers enjoy what they’re doing so much because they’re always upbeat and positive.

  
  

  Topic: If traveling is as wonderful as we describe, and 1000s of people subscribe to our same beliefs, and so many people are openly envious of the lifestyle, why do so few people do it?

  
  

  The first reason we came up with was personality.  The second reason, fear.  The things people cling onti, their comfort zones, their network of people, their career, their positions, these are not things we are afraid to let go of in order to follow our bliss, and in order to gain a better understanding and appreciation of the world.  Hopefully, as we continue to maintain and thrive in our lifestyle, others will develop whatever it is they need to overcome what is holding them to domestice lives. 

  
  

  It’s 3:30am now.  Everyone else on the plane has their lights out, most are sleeping, some are snoring.  I was sleeping earlier, but they woke us at 2am for dinner.  I took the paella and it was quite delicious, and rounded it off with an amazing chocolate moose cake.  Since there’s about 6 more hours to go, and we’ll probably be woken up shortly for breakfast, I’m going to try catching some more intermitant z’s for now.  Want to be somewhat rested for my first sites, smells, tastes, sounds, and feels of Africa.

  
  

  NEW ENTIRES!!!!!!!

  
  

  10AM – on the plane

  
  

  I just swapped seats with the woman sitting next to me.  “I wish you could see Africa from tha plane,” I said.  “Why don’t we sway seats, I’ve sen it before.”  So, we’ve just swapped seats, and I’m now looking out the window.  I’m looking out the window, and you’ll never believe what is down there.  AFRICA.  It’s flat, patchy colored, mostly brown with black patches swirled in.  The same site continued on for over an hour, till I noticed one thin, brown line running straight across the desert like a string.  The first sign of anything civilized coming out of this complete braness.  Then another road appeared that quite literally stopped at nothing.  Maybe someone built it to a mirage.  It’s still unfathomable to think of myself flying over this massive piece of map.  This particular part, according to the airplane video screen, is the Kalahari desert of Namibia.  There is a black stretch snaking its way across the land.  A river, possibly, although it could be dried up.  The plane is lowering and the land is beginning to resemble the midwest United States now, slightly more colored and some of the land is organized into farming grids.

  
  

  10:25PM 11/03/03

  
  

  I’m about to call it a night, my first in South Africa.  My friend Disney, who worked at my summer cmap this past summer, picked me up at the airport, and will be hosting me for a few days.  The inside of her house is like any other, and she has 3 dogs who are constantly looking for attention, so much fun.  When we first entered her house, I had now soooner dropped off my bags before I was introduced to the little black baby who walked into the room.  I couldn’t fathom why the little girl was here, but she walked up to me, looked at me with a stoic face, and put both her hands up in the air.  I can’t recall ever handling an infant, but I couldn’t resist picking her up.  Turns out hter mother was in the other room, and housekeeps 3 days a week.  After taking a 2 hour nap, I spend the hours of 5 till now discussing a wide range of interesting topics.  I’ve already had notions put into my head that I hope to find out more about.  For example, Johannesburg is not considered to be the safest place, with violent crimes becoming more popular.  Apparently, there is a large populatoin of people here from Zimbabwe, who left there because there are very few to no opportunities.  Toilet paper is woth more than their currency.  So they come here with no money, and end up becoming criminals.  A lot of the stories I haer about poverty and crime are similar to New York.  People trying to wash your car windows without asking, then asking for money.  Others giving out “free” toothgrushes or boxes of condoms (as dodgy as that sounds) and then requesting a donation afterwards.  Later I met Disney’s uncle, Blaze, who is a school teacher in Swaziland, a country I can honestly say I knew nothing about, including its existence.  Apparently, those who opposed apartheid moved to Swaziland, which is very liberal in its race relations.  While South Africa had laws prohibiting inter-racial marriage or sexual relations, this is not viewed as a proble at all in Swaziland.  Another hot topic that came up was Aids.  Apparently, the only people who are able to obtain affordable generic drugs are women who have been raped and those in prison.  This is certainly a topic with a lot to be learned.

  
  

  While I was just freezing yesturday in Madrid, today was pleasantly in the 70′s.  People here drive on theleft hand side of the road, although Disney’s car has thedriver’s seat on the left as well, which is pretty unusual.  I got to use internet today, and they have satalie too, although I ahven’t watched yet.  For dinner we went out and had fish and chips.  I already feel at home on the road, an advantage of haiving a friend to visit.  But right now, the best part is I ahve my own bed to stretch out and sleep in.  No crying babies, turublance, or odd-houred meals to deal with.

  
  

  11/4/03 11:22PM
  SPEECHLESS, GENEROSITY, AND, WELL…SPEECHLESS

  
  

  Things can only get better.  That’s my new motto.  Dinner at a luxurious game farm, drinking beer, swimming, and playing in the pool with 2 game farm owners and their families.  A zebra walking across the road.  riding in the back of an open truck, standing up and spotting baby giraffes in the dark.  A traditional South Africa bry, including lamb chops and chicken grilled on wood coals.  the resord was incredible, the concept of where I was, hard to believe.  But best of all, Peter, his wife, and their neighbors.  Telling me about different game, and teaching me the Afriakans word for a really good time.  “Lekker.”  Tonight I had a lekker time.  This is a tradition here, and that word expresses that tradition of celebrating life.  Absolutely beautiful.

  
  

  Right now, there is a Jack Russell sleeping at the foot of the couch.  Just now (meaning 5 seconds ago, not in a little while) one of the other dogs barked, sending the Jack Russel, named Thrumpi, flying off the couch and into a wall of mosquito netting.  Oh yeah, I’m sleeping on the couch with mosquito netting over me, quite humorous, and after several unsuccessful attempts to run through the netting, I helped it under.  I spent a good part of the day playing with tese 2 JR’s, these things are non-stop energy, leaping on you, licking your face, then collapsing in the cool shade to sleep.

  
  

  I forgot my bathingsuit today, so I swam in my shorts at the game lodge pool, which means I didn’t have my notebook handy.  No longer do I question whether or not I can trust my memory.  I can’t.  Today I definately went into vacation mode, as well as awe mode, and therefor the day was amazing, but it’s difficult to focus on the details.  Since there’s no do-overs, I’ll push myself today.

  
  

  The drive to the game park was beautiful, scatter mountains that were surprisingly freend and full of vegetation.  When choosing a scenic backdrop for anything, always choose mountains over flat land.  We passed a massive township, 1000s of homes made of scrap wood and tin, all packed together.  Disney told me she’sd never go through it and expect to leave with ehr car.  Disney is one of those special people who can talk for as long as you can listen, telling me about African politics, music, and geography.  The game farm we visited has programs for schools, and Disney has helped work some of these programs.. Peter, who runs the programs, has been workign for years in game frarms since he finished studying about them after college.  After a year working oan American camp, he added a low ropes course to the lodge and has begun leadership programs with the kids, along with the environmental education they get from the animals.  The lodge is mostly bush where 13 species roam freely.  There’s no natural predators, since the lion is bred in captivity.  Peter called their names and 3 female lions came to meet us at the fence.  At the second game lodge, I was handed a pair of bonoculars while simming and got a great look at some antelopes.  This lodge was beautiful.  I particularly loved the fire circle used to grill, and a circle of chairs around it for socializing.  Amongst these 30 somethings, I was viewed as and treated as a complete adult, fully involved in every conversation and trying to gain more knowledge about S. African culture.  Even when they slipped into Afrikans, they stopped and translated for me.  There is literally nothing outisde of these places but a dirt road.  Yet inside are magnificent log huts with straw thatched roofs, several bars, and massive tables for eating.  And for those people who see animals daily, the novelty never wears off.  Each site of game you stop and admire.  I’ve now learned of another not so far away place, Botswana, where the animals roam completley free, no gates of any form.  It honestly felt like Jurassic Park at times, nothing keeping the animals from joining us for dinner or a swim in the pool.

  
  

  When we got back to Peter’s game farm tonight, I was exhausted and my head was swimming from the excitement of the day, that culminated with the giraffe spotting while standing in theback of their truck.  Peter then showed me some photos, 4 albums worth, of his own summer camp pictures, in North Carolina.  What I’ll remember most is his youthfulness and passinos for recalling the stories behind these pictures.  How furtunate that I not only get to visit a game farm for free, but the person in charge shareds thesame educational views as me.  I actually could work at this place,and either way I’ve still expanded my network of educators and game farmers.

  
  

  It’s now 12:30am.  Tomorrow will be doing a more formal animal search, plus more time with the lions.  This isn’t vacation.  This is truly traveling.  This is learning about the worl, learning about my world.

  
  

  11/5/03 5:34PM
  LIONS AND ZEBRAS AND CHEETAHS, OH MY!!!

  
  

  Woke up at 5:30am this morning.  Not by choice, but the cute little Jack Russel scratching at my mosquito net.  He made himself comfortable on my stomach, and let me fall back asleep for about 2 minutes before he was ready to play.  He wiggled his way up to my face, and stared at me.  I patted his head, and I think ihe understood my body language that  Iwas sleepy, so he closed his eyes too and we slept.  This lasted another 2 minutes, and on and off for about an hour, until the roosters began cock-a-doodle-dooing every 15 seconds, until the baby in the house started crying, until Peter and his wife Nina woke up, and asked, “How’d you sleep.”  Althought not a tea drinker, I didn’t turn down the morning offer, just as  Iaccepted a cup of coffee after last nights bry.  While waking up on tea, I learned a little bit from Nina about South African history.

  
  

  The topic on everyone’s mind when it comes to this part of the world, is race and apartheid.  Unforutnately, nothing I learned about this topic I rmember, and there are pleanty of scholars who have written on the topic.  But hearing about it from a South African, introduces angles one may  not commonly see in a book, or hear from a professor.  The word apartheid is an afridkans word meaning, “segregation.”  There were once 9 clans or tribes in South Africa, and apartheid, according to Nina, was inteded to keep these culture separated.  The association of the word now with racism was not the case from the start.  This is much the same way communism was not introduced to lead to oppressive governing, it’s intnetions were good.  As it turns out, the end of apartheid has also brought the beginning of the end to tribal culture.  As blacks and whites mix, crises involving heritage and identity develop.

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